Author Topic: Newsletters from Lucy Harrell - 2013  (Read 20102 times)

Offline Brian Gallimore

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Newsletters from Lucy Harrell - 2013
« on: January 24, 2013, 10:34:30 AM »
1/24/2013
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from Lucy Harrell--announcing- things change-find out what

Hi everyone--Things change-sometimes that is good--sometimes it upsets us--I guess  what I'm trying to tell you is  that there is good news and there is bad news!!
 
 I'm going to give you the bad news first
     In the past we have enjoyed the great effects of the Green Bag of Humalfa Humore when ever we needed to repair a damaged spot in our lawns.  There was also a purple bag  that we used to promote  abundant blooms in our flower beds.  Last year the company reported that they now only had one bag-but it served both needs. However-my testing with clients over  the last year  caused me to quit paying the price for  the product (at a bag per 100 square feet) for lawn damage and just recommending an inch of any good organic compost- home made or  purchased.
Now some good news--
     I still love the Humalfa Humore product as it is now-- for  using as a top dress in flower beds to promote abundant blooms -and one bag covers  about 300 square feet of planted ground  (  applied over drip lines of  established plants in a bed ) as I recommend using it --so the good news is we still that great product.  And both Marshall Grain stores  still carry it for my clients.
       Another  change is that over the last 5 years or so  it has been very hard to find a really powdery form of corn gluten meal -(like it was in the beginning when we first realized that it was a good form of broad leaf weed control). We saw the product  get more and more  granular in it's form . Corn Gluten Meal started being called spreadable- much of this change was driven by demand. The complaint  about this  powdery product from the  start was that it was dusty and messy to spread-so when  a bag that said it was granular and  easier to apply appeared- we  all jumped right on that wagon.  I was one of the first ones to be sorry for the change--because I felt that it adversely affected the properties that I took care of . While  the granular made applying the product much easier-- it didn't work as well for me as weed control-so I went back to using and recommending  the powder. Then it seemed that even bags that were supposed to be powder turned out to be just a fine granular-and while those were better than the bags called granular --those of us that had used the one that really looked and felt like yellow flour were frustrated with the results.  
       Get ready for more good news----we can still get the form that looks like yellow flour that many of us believe works best.  Blue Bonnet has always and still does make it.  Blue Bonnet was one of the original brands that I used and recommended-however -other brands that were supposed to be the same texture  were  cheaper-and it just got lost in the shuffle to provide  customers with better prices and because it wasn't carried by  garden centers lately because of the difference in price --I thought that it no longer existed.  It is 6.00 more a bag than other choices ( I guess that classifies as bad news) BUT ( big but) when I polled a random 12 of you on my lists-all 12 said that they would pay the 6.00 more  for a product that produced better results. In my opinion it definitely does.  Blue Bonnet may be hard to find- check with the garden center where you shop-they may have started carrying it again--if you want to use Blue Bonnet-and can't find it- more good news -Both  Marshall Grain stores have said that they have  it for you.
Marshall Grain Company-817-536-5636—Fort Worth
Marshall Grain Company   -817-416-6600—Grapevine
  FYI-Because it is so powder like-it is just a little harder to apply than what you may have used before-so work with your setting-which will simply depend on how fast you walk--you will figure it out in a pass or two. (The correct rate is 20lbs per 1000 square feet) You aren't going to set it near as high as when applying a granular fertilizer. Pick a day when the wind is low.  Be sure to lightly water over it to bond it to the soil after applying it. You will be a little  dusty and have yellow shoes but you will love the better results .
I have attached the new Pick Your Program for 2013--if you have an old one --replace it with with this one-it looks the same but  this one is updated. Read more about how corn gluten meal works in this handout.
     If you subscribe to Lucy's Lines newsletter you will receive a copy of the revised Pick Your Program also --along with a 7 page  article called How To Have a Healthy Lawn that will get your 2013 lawn started off right- -fix any damage from last year and trouble shoot possible future problems and you will also receive a revised guide to proper watering.
     If you don't subscribe --but want to-- just let me know and I will send you the article on Lawns and a start up packet right away-and I will send you my mailing address to mail me a check. The charge for Lucy's Lines is 25.00 a  year for 25 issues -one very 2 weeks.
 
Enjoy the great weather
 Love & Luck, Lucy Harrell
            T.C.N.P. A Specialist On Demanding Environments
            Visit my website for lots of organic information
            www.organicgardeningtx.com  

attachment with newsletter "Pick Your Program-2013 PDF.pdf" 420K is viewable at:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/1iudnrKJAzY5AEVBk2D6eUxMk9oiZYvob-JjuaojOQrIiKXkVcVidrmJLtqq6/edit
« Last Edit: January 24, 2013, 10:37:56 AM by Brian Gallimore »
briangallimore.com  -Permaculture Nut-  -Master Gardener-  -Master Naturalist-  Princeton Texas

Offline Brian Gallimore

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Re: Newsletters from Lucy Harrell - 2013
« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2013, 08:58:57 AM »
2/1/2013:
Quote
February is here--I warned you!!! from Lucy Harrell- look at my new website

Hi Everyone--Last week--I warned you to get some rest because Feruary was coming up--Well guess what !!!--Feb 15th is just a round the corner---Get those clippers out-and be sure that they are nice & sharp-if you need to buy some -go shopping soon-so you will be ready. It's time to get  all of the dead leaves that have  fallen down are packed inside your woody shrubs  removed-especially in evergreen herbs like Rosemary, Jerusalem Sage and Santolina. leaves are fine left in the flower bed but not  down in  woody shrubs--our rainy springs can  cause this congestion  to rot out the plant.
I have attached  a new maitenance  schedule with more  information in it than ever before -about what to trim and how to trim it---so replace any old copy with this one As promised- Those of you that subscribe to my Lucy's Lines Newsletter will receive a picture by picture account of proper pruning techniques in your February 7th edition.

My new website is all finished-    check it out-click on the tabs -they  tell you  how I work in DFW now that I live in  Magnolia (  north of Houston ).    www.lucyharrell.com

  Charles -  our son that owns Robinhood Office  Furniture designed and completed my website for me--and it is just what I wanted- crisp and clear and easy to read and navigate--Take a look at it and  if you or anyone that you know  needs a website designed for them contact him. charles@robinhoodoffice.com

The complete cost for your website with text and pictures on 5 pages  is only 225.00--that includes everything-even hosting and there are no monthly fees--that's it and you have a professional looking website that can show people what you do. He offers other options too-with more pages and including  training you to be your own webmaster-- To find out more about Robinhood Web go to

http://www.robinhoodoffice.com/Robinhood_Web.html
  Love & Luck, Lucy Harrell
            T.C.N.P. A Specialist On Demanding Environments
            Visit my website for information on my products and services in Texas
                and organic gardening advise.  www.lucyharrell.com         
 
             CELL-   817-907-5481

General Maintenance Schedule-E-Newsletter.doc:
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A General  Maintenance Schedule for All Organic Landscapes
                                      By Lucy Harrell T.C.N.P.     
                       A Specialist On Demanding Environments                               

***Feb. 15-March 31
*(Unless you have already applied it this Spring)--Apply  [Powdered] Corn Gluten Meal at 20 lbs per 1000 sq feet to your lawn and bed area to control broad leaf weeds—if this is a concern.

* Trim back evergreen   shrubs that are not Spring only bloomers --if they need it to make them bushy. Cut them back about 6”-18” depending on their size-to just above a node.  If they are real overgrown you may take most shrubs back by half or more —new growth will come  just above the cut so keep that in mind--as long as you do this between Feb. 15- March 31st (this is called radical pruning and is done only when shrubs have gotten very much out of hand) Always make your final cut on each branch just above a node. If your yard is in deep shade  in summer from deciduous  trees ( trees that lose their leaves) -and you need  radical pruning- do it  as soon as possible around Feb15. You want to get as much  light in the area as possible ( before the new leaves appear) - on the new cuts to promote growth.   If the area is in deep shade from live oaks ( evergreen trees) it is best not to do radical pruning - just  shear or pick prune back by no more than a foot-as close to Feb 15th as possible.  Same reason-You want to get as much light in the area as possible on the new cuts to promote growth-and even evergreen trees  are more sparse in Feb.

*Cut back  shrub roses that are repeat bloomers  such as Knock Out, Drift, Belinda’s Dream, Dame De Cour  ect.  by ½- and remove 2-3 old canes on climbers-cut 3 year canes  to the ground-do not cut back spring only bloomers  such as Lady Banks, American Beauty , Seven Sisters or Fortunes Double Yellow.



***Feb. 15-March 31 cont.
*Clean up any evergreen perennials   if they need it [ only cut back if damaged-or just remove damages part.]  Ex ample : Lenten Rose, Holly Ferns, Cast iron Plants, Divaracata Phlox, Columbine  etc.

*Cut these woody perennials and others like them--back by 1/3-1/2 just above a node to keep them from getting too woody and leggy.
Salvia Greggii, , Mexican Oregano, Russian Sage etc.
* Always Cut back Powis Castle Artemisia and Pink Skullcap by 2/3

*Herbaceous  Perennials die back to the ground each year but will return. Remove the dead part or trim it off at just about 2 “ above  ground level.   Example-Turks cap, Mexican Mint Marigold, Mexican Bush Sage, Autumn Aster. Creeping Lantana,  Most Ornamental Grasses etc
 ***---Apply a Granular   and a Foliar on your program—see Pick Your Program that I sent you last week—tell me if you need another one


***April--May—
*Plant Warm Season Annuals
* Prune spring blooming  perennials after they have finished blooming to shape up and keep them from getting woody.   Spring blooming perennials like Candytuft,  Divaracata Phlox, Rosemary, Mock Orange,  etc
*Trim some  spring bloomers  back by removing 1-2 canes from the ground and trimming off about a foot off of each stem that is left—if they have finished blooming. Bridal Wreath Spiraea, Japanese Kerria
* Cut Back Spring Blooming Roses—Cut shrubs back by 1/3-1/2 remove 2  three  year canes to the ground( woody-dark-largest)
* Dead head all  roses-when needed
*Speciality feed the roses with  either  Humalfa , rabbit manure- or  organic rose food. Top dress  the drip lines with an inch.


*** May
 * Trim these perennials  by 1/3 to keep them  bushy and blooming well—Salvia Greggii ( trim every 2-3 months) Hot Lips Salvia

* Apply a Foliar spray to every thing—[see Pick Your Program]

***June
*Deadhead   roses—cut just above a 5 leaf node—3 leaf nodes are too week to hold them up--* Specialty  feed roses with   Humalfa or organic rose food or rabbit manure- top dress with 1 inch on the drip line
* Trim any  large shrubs that have overgrown their bounds

*** July
*Apply a Granular and a Foliar spray on your program [see Pick Your Program]
*Cut back fall bloomers so they don’t get too tall before they bloom and fall over-ex> Autumn Aster, Mexican mint Marigold, etc.

***August-
*Cut these plants back to renew them if they are overgrown or tired looking Salvia Farinacea ( any variety), Hot Lips Salvia, Mexican Oregano, Salvia Greggii etc.
* Deadhead and cut back roses if they need it-
* Specialty  feed roses with   Humalfa or organic rose food or rabbit manure- top dress with 1 inch on the drip line

***September
 *Continue to check your summer bloomers and roses and deadhead them or if woody and you didn’t cut them back in August- cut them back  ASAP to prevent them from  putting on too much  thick wood. 


***September cont.
*Trim your Rosemary again to make it bloom and keep it from getting woody stems that can  cause it to have dead pieces in the early spring

*Apply a Foliar on your program--- [see the Pick Your Program sheet] be sure to shake  those liquids very well
 

***October – November
* Apply [Powdered] Corn Gluten Meal  [20 lbs per 1000 sq feet] to your lawn and bed area to control broadleaf weeds—follow the directions exactly as  written on the Pick Your Program Sheet
*Plant Cool Season Annuals
*Apply a Granular and a Foliar on your program. [See the Pick Your Program sheet]

***December—
*Happy Holidays- Feed The Birds-Leave their  habitat for cover and Spring Nesting

More About Pruning Your Plants---

*Some shrubs hardly ever need pruning—but could be pruned hard  if they get out of bounds or damaged for some reason.    If you want to trim them back the best time to do it is between Feb.- March unless they are spring only bloomers.  This is the time of year when the weather is right for regrowing the cuts that you made and you have more sunlight because the leaves are still off the trees.  Cut them just above a node several inches below the height that you want them to stay for a while.  These plants were on the monthly list but they are usually fine without trimming –Dwarf yaupon, Hollies Etc.

 These  shrubs  are  usually  fine left alone for the first 2 years—after that [in Feb. – March] take the older [taller or damaged] stems off to the ground to encourage new bushy growth. 
Never just trim along the top or sides-this will create the Alfalfa look-
[As in Little Rascals] with tall naked stems and bushy sprigs on tips.
Nandinas, Mahonia, Bridal Wreath Spiraea, Japanese Kerria

 Some ground covers  are almost  evergreen but they get tired—If you don’t like how they look trim them back. Example Wood Violets, Wood Sorrel, Shamrocks, Columbines, Spring Phlox, Thyme, etc.

Some very important points about trimming

*When deadheading Roses always take the stem back to a five-petal leaf node- [the upper nodes will only have 3 leaves on them and if you cut there the bloom may be limp and hang down.]
*Never trim  any woody plant during rainy weather—this can lead to fungal problems inside the stems.
*Never cut a plant back severely just after it has put on a lot of new growth—especially in the heat.
* Trim or thin  trees between Nov. and Feb.- if needed- to remove dead wood or let light into the garden.

* Hard pruning on shrubs [cutting back by more then 1/3] should only be done as early as possible in the early spring to allow as much light as possible before the leaves come on the trees. (Before April 1)

*Always cut plants that only bloom in the spring right after they bloom ( best time) and never later then July.
*Always make cuts on an angle so that water cannot sit on the surface cut and cause the stem to rot out.

*If you have trimmed a diseased shrub—do not use the same clippers to trim other shrubs until you have dipped them in a solution of
1 part bleach to 9 parts water—rinse and dry.  You can spread disease from one plant to another if you don’t follow this rule.

*If Annuals get leggy cut them back to just above a node to renew them. With cool season annuals this is usually in Feb. and with warm season annuals usually in August.  After cutting back topdress lightly with some kind of processed alfalfa source like rabbit manure products or Humalfa.  or  Do a  foliar with one of the Fish/Seaweed choices.( John’s Recipe of Natures Guide—add Agrispon as well)

Be sure to check out the Pick Your Program Sheet—While native plants don’t need a lot of fussing-- the program I teach builds itself in about 1-3 years and will repair damage done to our soils by pollution and salt build up from treated water so it is of great benefit to all landscapes.

****Very Important- always water deeply—shallow watering only gets the soil wet an inch or two—the soil dries out about one inch a day- faster in sandy soils—soils watered down to 6 inches deep
( which means an inch above ground) will take a lot of the stress of being planted in Texas heat off your plant material-- and you-- by making  the need to water less often.           

If you have any questions-just  ask me—Love & Luck ,Lucy
Visit my new website for more organic information
www.lucyharrell.com

briangallimore.com  -Permaculture Nut-  -Master Gardener-  -Master Naturalist-  Princeton Texas

Offline Brian Gallimore

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Re: Newsletters from Lucy Harrell - 2013
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2013, 09:35:25 PM »
Native Plant sale Sat 9-28- weed control-First Wed- Fun Oct events at Marshall Grain

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Click on this link to  learn more about the Molly Hollar native plant sale  this Saturday Sept 28      http://www.thewildscape.org/
Hi everyone *:-h
 wave I am happy to announce that we will have first Wednesday in October---So save that date Oct 2-7PM at  Jim Stegalls Garden Center -for a map go to the website  http://www.stegallsnursery.com/
Guess what time it is ?- go ahead guess *:-? thinking     It's time to put down your  Blue Bonnet powdered corn gluten meal-if you haven't already this month - and guess what else? It is a much better price this year  ( 31.99) and  Marshall Grain has an in store coupon for 3.00 off-what a great deal! Please let  them know that we appreciate them carrying the Blue Bonnet  product for us. It is the only truly powdered corn gluten meal available and Marshall Grain (as they have so often with hard to find products) went above & beyond to get this product here for those of us that want it . The powder form  bonds with the soil giving you much better weed control then a granular or fine grind variety-see page 2 on the attached document " Pick Your Program" for full information on  how to use corn gluten meal for best  control of  broad leaf weeds in  the lawn and flower beds.
 
Marshall Grain  has several treats for everyone during the month of October- check out these  great offerings
 Marshall Grain Events Highlight Harvest Season
Fall Decorating Workshop & Halloween Party Make Fall More Festive
The workshop, "Decorating for the Harvest Season," on Saturday, October 5, will inspire you to dress up your porch, patio, and home interior with all the brilliant colors of Autumn.  Customers can attend the workshop at either the Grapevine or Fort Worth location. Both sessions begin at 11 a.m. The class will show you how to mix pansies, corn stalks, gourds, and a variety of other popular Autumn pieces into a festive Fall display. You'll even learn how to make your own scarecrow.
Halloween Party & Pet Adoptions
On Saturday, October 19, the Grapevine store will combine an old-fashioned Halloween Party with pet adoptions. The store will feature a pumpkin patch with special photo booth for snap-happy customers to pose for pictures with each other and their pets. Both people and pets who come in costume will receive a special 10% discount, and from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., kids will have a chance to try their hand at apple bobbing and pumpkin carving (with pumpkin purchase). Also from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., the Humane Society of North Texas will have adoption-ready pets available.

October 26st - Hens in the House - 10 AM (Fort Worth only)
     Q&A session on chickens. Hens will be available for sale.
For more info on events and  great gardening  information visit the Marshall Grain Website at             
www.marshallgrain.com.
Love & Luck Lucy harrell
briangallimore.com  -Permaculture Nut-  -Master Gardener-  -Master Naturalist-  Princeton Texas