Call for Community Gardens that Need Volunteers

DFW Citizen Gardener Volunteer Map and List

The Citizen Gardener program now has about 60 graduates from the class who are seeking to complete their volunteer hours.  We are looking for additional community gardens that would like to have volunteers help them out.  (how is that for an easy sell?)  The requirements are that the students need to benefit from actual gardening activities that will help them learn and gain experience (not just sorting thousands of seeds or spending 4 hours making labels).  Most valuable are locations with experienced gardeners who will be present and available while the volunteers are helping.

A subsection of the NorthTexasVegetableGardeners.com website has been created that displays a map of the current Citizen Gardener volunteer locations and lists them out also.  The map will provide students an easy way to find participating gardens near where they live.  If you know of a garden that is interested in being on the Citizen Gardener volunteer list, please have a representative from the garden contact us via the comment section below, or email citizengardener@northtexasvegetablegardeners.com.

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Citizen Gardener Class #2 – Promise of Peace – Dallas

Here are the pictures I took of the Citizen Gardener class held at the Promise of Peace community garden:

201109-citizengardener2

I’ll post links to more pictures on the Citizen Gardener Class #2 post on the forum.

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Future Citizen Gardener Teachers

Friday night a group of students from Citizen Gardener class #1 met at the Promise of Peace community garden with Dick Pierce from Austin to train to be future Citizen Gardener teachers.  We went over the objectives of the class, the topics, exercises, what to say, what not to say, how to answer questions, where we would locate the raised beds, etc.  This group of people will assist with a few classes and eventually run their own classes in future classes.

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Most Bugs are Good Bugs

I recently saw a fascinating (and a little gross) picture on facebook that caught my attention.  I’ve had these fat little munchers (hornworms) on my tomato plants in the past, and they have quite an apatite!  Like everything in nature, there is balance and control.  Fat worms like the hornworm are used by certain wasps to lay their eggs in.  The wasps (Braconidae) also like to use caterpillars, beetles, aphids, squash bugs and stink bugs.  It is a pretty gruesome process to think about, having your body used to feed the eggs of a predator insect, but that is exactly how nature works.  If you see a worm like this with white specks on its back in your garden, let it live!  You will be blessed with a new family of bad-bug-killing warriors in a few weeks.  (and don’t worry, that worm’s days are very limited!)  There are probably thousands of little interesting interactions like this one, and even more that occur in the soil that you will never see.  I urge people to keep things like this in mind when you decide to ‘do’ something in your garden.  It is hard to know what repercussions your actions have, so doing the minimum necessary is often the best choice.  You might be ‘fixing’ one thing, but unintended consequences are hard to predict.  Chemicals are like the atomic weapons of gardening, they are very powerful, so please understand the downsides, avoid when possible, and take personal responsibility for your actions.

According to the Texas Bug Book 60% of the bugs we have are beneficial or ‘good’ bugs.

The picture came from Nick with saveourskills.com.  Read more about the Braconid wasp.

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Living Natural First Fall Gardening Seminar

John, Rebecca, and Sabino from Living Natural First spoke before a large group gathered at Wells Brothers in Plano this morning to help people learn about Fall Organic Gardening.  It is a rare and valuable opportunity to be able to ask gardening questions to these three folks!  I did lots of listening and note-taking, and will share what I learned here.  By the way, they handed out free copies of the Living Natural First magazine (which I somehow have remained ignorant of until now). You can subscribe to have it delivered to your house.

Here are my notes:

  • Test your soil.  Use Texas Plant and Soil Lab!  (there is lots of controversy about the results from different soil labs, but I’ve never heard any negatives from using this one)
  • Onion sets are great to plant right now, but no one in DFW sells them.  They are easy to plant from seed
  • Planting carrots:  Don’t plant closer than recommended.  Sabino plants by broadcasting seed, then thinning as they grow up rather than trying to space seeds properly.
  • Sabino says DO NOT plant tomatoes deep.  The deep roots wind up being too deep and the plant won’t grow until a new root ball is formed up near the surface.  He says tomatoes will do best when planted at the same height as the nursery had them planted at.  He also says DO NOT pick off leaves, they are needed by plant to shade itself.
  • Reminder that almost all of the soil biology and chemistry is in the top 2″ to 3″ of soil.
  • When the subject of spider mites came up, the response from John, Rebecca, and Sabino was that you should be spraying your plants once per week with compost tea.  Every week, the whole growing season.  Apply the spray just before sundown.  Rebecca likes to add orange oil, John likes to add liquid seaweed to his.  The reason for the strict once per week regiment is to break the lifecycle of the pests.  They are often easy to control at their early stages, very difficult at later stages, when they are usually noticed.
  • Soft Rock Phosphate
    • important for getting blooms
    • if too much nitrogen is available, then phosphate usage is hampered.
    • Phosphorous is ‘locked-up’ in our soil.  It can be made available by lowering pH (note from me: which is impossible to do long term because our soil sits on limestone) or by increasing biological activity.
    • Can buy product with added dry molasses that encourages biological activity, increasing phosphorous availability to plants.
    • recommended adding rock phosphate to compost pile – it doesn’t ‘go away’ like nitrogen does, binds with carbon and is available to plants when compost is used
    • doesn’t burn plants – can be added to hole when a transplant is placed in garden
  • Horse Hay / Horse Manure – caution that much of hay used to feed horses is treated with broadleaf herbicides that remain in the material for a long time and will kill your plants.  Use the bean water test to determine if what you have is usable in your garden.
  • Microbes and Fungus are ‘territorial’ – so inculcation products have limited usefulness.  (if your soil is dead, they they are useful, if your soil is alive, they won’t help)
  • Fungi helps plants that are under stress – not useful in a greenhouse or where plants are healthy
  • Focus on feeding the soil instead of adding microbes and fungi
  • If compost stinks, don’t buy it – tip from John
  • Weeds
    • worst thing to do for weeds is till them – it kills the growing weeds, but stirs up 100’s more weed seeds that will start growing soon
    • use mulch
    • use 10% or 20% vinegar
  • Watering
    • 62% of the water used in the DFW area goes to watering lawns
    • in 2010 Plano used more water per capita than any other city in the US
    • water infrequently (lawns in DFW are going every 2 weeks in this record heat if their roots are trained deep)
    • water plants increasing further away from stalks to promote large root systems
    • determine moisture content down in the soil, where the roots are, not on the surface
  • Sabino says you want your plants to grow slow, not fast.  Do not add nitrogen fertilizer to start with, only when the plants start to set fruit.

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