Newsletters from Motherherbs Garden - Val - 2013

[Brian Gallimore]

1/22/2013:

Gardening tips for the weeks of 1/22-2/17


Hello Veggie Gardeners and Organic Folk,

First,...... I have to tell you how much I've missed ALL of  YOU,.... and writing,..... and sharing
As many of you know the loss of my Mother, in late July, was much harder than I expected..... And then my Father passed in Oct..............My heart goes out to anyone that is walking this path, and I know alot of us have.., will.., and are................
  "Let Go With Love"...........I'm still on this journey, but the Light is shinning brighter.

Thanks to all of you for being so understanding, giving, and supportive........ I'm ready to get back to the garden..............And the classroom !!!!!!!
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This is a long email, as many of you know I can be fairly long winded at times, with plenty of food for thought... This is all the Stuff you need to think about now, if you want to have a successful garden this Spring

I'll be open my usual days, Thur. and Sat. 10am - 6pm..........Here's some of the things I already have in stock....972-207-2938
#1---Bulk mushroom compost will be here by Thur.1/24---The best stuff!-----by the yard, 1/2 yard, or bag your own
#2---I have onion sets--$1.50........And seed potatoes.....$1.00@ lb.-----Don't plant before Feb 1st----I always do it the 15th--and the moon will be perfect for it Feb15th and 16th
#3 --All the 2013 organic spring seeds---the ones that really work here.
#4--Organic Fertilizers, amendments, bagged compost, mulch, expanded shale and more..
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 Spring is almost here!!!!
The first Free class of the year will be Sat. 2/2/13, @ 10:30am, " Knowing Your Soil", this is the most important class I teach...Without a basic understanding of how soil works and how to balance, nurture and protect it you will never be a truly successful gardener............For those of you just starting out I highly recommend you attend this one.........I will cover soil testing,... soil as a living organism,....and all the organic soil amendments and their uses,....This is for beginners as well as seasoned gardeners and is information I base all of my gardening, teaching , and writing on.

  I am asking people to sign up for the class so I'll have an idea about how many handouts to print and chairs to set up. Just RSVP me via email....Thank you.....The directions are included at the bottom of the email.....I can be reached @ 972-207-2938
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The beginning of the gardening season starts NOW---What I mean by "NOW", is getting the gardens prepped before it's time to plant.......It seems most of us don't consider the gardens until we're purchasing plants and seeds, and we don't realize how much work there is to do before we pop them in the ground......{ for those of you that did winter cover crops like rye, vetch, or clover, it's time to turn them under}
SOIL PREPARATION....IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, that is if your hoping to be successful.............I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH...........Your soil is the foundation of your garden.......You wouldn't build a house, move in the furniture, and hang the drapes if there wasn't a good foundation sitting under it, Would you?

Same thing holds true for planting your veggie gardens.....The foundation MUST come first....Veggies are big feeders with specific demands, you don't feed them and they won't feed you!
There are a variety of ways to go about enriching your soil............I choose to use the knowledge that our forefathers used---before chemicals,..........In the past a garden plot meant "Life" to a family,.....it was the place they all depended on....And they also knew something alot of us don't,---- Soil is Alive.....it's full of earth worms, good fungus's, bacterias, and an array of microbial life, all of which is necessary to support a healthy garden ... The balance and life of your soil is a very fragile system...Our great grand parents knew this, and respected it................ .Chemicals, over tilling, ignorance, pollutants, and lack of moisture all contribute to It's demise.
Without soil prep you'll be wasting your time, your water, and your money on plants that won't do much if anything.............Now if you say to yourself, " Well I added compost and the amendments last year, so I'm good.....", sorry, it doesn't work that way................Every year we need to amend our soil for the veggie  garden we're dreaming of.....This is because all the good stuff you did for the soil last spring was either used up by the plants, or has leached down with watering, {or maybe it got too hot for you and you just stopped watering--in which case all the soil life has died},............. you need to replenish it before each growing season............If you are wondering what you need to do I suggest doing a simple soil test, I sell soil test kits, it'll cost you $7.50, a little distilled water, and 20 minutes of your time, and in the long run you'll save money and your sanity because you'll know where YOU stand.........Let's think about that for a minute, the guy down the street tells me to do this,  grandma in Oklahoma always did it that way,  the info I found on the Internet said this will work.......A majority of this info doesn't necessarily apply to us...........I tell everyone Living here in North Texas is like living on Mars, it's very different than what most garden books or web sites are referring too, and those of you that have been gardening here for years know exactly what I'm talking about......Doing a simple soil test will allow you to get valuable information pertaining to  "Your Piece of the World", and it's easy as long as you follow the instructions, and you've always got me to help you understand what they mean, and how to use the results to bring your soil to a happy balanced place where the plants can thrive and live up to your expectations.

Another very important factor is Timing, there is a time for each crop, whether your seeding or using transplants.....We'll go over this in much more detail as those times draw closer. But here's a little heads up for those of you planning on planting onions and potatoes, or putting in an asparagus bed......those beds need to be ready by early/ mid Feb......That's 3  weeks away.......See what I mean about prepping NOW.........
Let's get back to the soil prep.....

The first important thing to add is  Compost !!!!!----And lots of it,...... 3-4" for new beds, or abandoned beds--{you stopped watering, or haven't done anything to them in a year}..................For established beds add 1-2"---this is what I do........ I've been building my beds up for years, I don't skimp on the amounts........I know how important good organic matter is to the outcome of my harvest.....

On the flip side of that --you can't plant in straight compost......IMPORTANT--it should never be more than 50% of your bed mix.

Compost is "Organic matter"---all good garden books will recommend to add lots of organic matter................the other added bonus you receive in good compost is microbial life, this is a very important part of having healthy "Alive" soil, and is often over looked.............
Compost is a very broad term.....,Here's what I mean....
Good compost should smell and feel like a forest floor, and even if it's a manure based variety and has a strong poop oder,  it should be a sweet "Poop" smell----I realize ya'll are laughing at me by now, that's ok....
.Bad compost either won't have any odor at all, or it will smell like rotting sewer sludge {Yuck}........if you can identify the materials in it, that's telling you it's not cooked down enough----a rotting bag of wood chips is not compost...............avoid compost with sand in it, sand sometimes is used as a filler and has no organic matter value at all, not to mention it drains water too fast for our area, {if we lived in East Texas it would be fine, cause it rains a lot there , and then there's the question of where the sand came from---most has been polluted}........And then in the case of the microbial life living in the bag of compost, if you buy if off a pallet that's been sitting in Home Depots parking lot, baking in the sun you can bet any life it had has now been fried to death.
The bottom line is you get what you pay for,

If your making your own keep in mind a heap of decaying kitchen and lawn waste isn't necessarily good compost........you'd have needed to add at least a few shovel fulls of good compost---by doing this your introducing microbial activity to your pile, this is what causes it to"Cook"......Then you need the right  "brown / carbon....green / nitrogen" ratio....
Brown would be fall leaves, dried up plant material, and even shredded news paper but only the black and white pages---no glossy or colored pages............
Green would be things like kitchen scraps, and fresh green lawn clippings...........
The ratio is 3 parts brown to 1 part green.
It'll need a consistent moisture level, you can check this out by feeling it, it should hold enough moisture to feel like a wrung out sponge........So set up your piles out of direct sun and water them regularly............They also need air, turn the pile with a pitch fork, poke long holes into it , and if it's really big you can flip it with a front end loader...................I use a trick to speed up the cooking process, about every 4th time I load in kitchen waste and then cover it with a layer of leaves, I'll sprinkle a good hand full of Dry Molasses and Alfalfa Meal on top, this helps in 2 ways, the molasses activates the microbial life--which means the pile will heat up and cook faster.....and when it gets wet and begins to dissolve it can coat the pesky fire ants that love to invade---the molasses smothers then--Woo-Hoo!!!.....The Alfalfa is nitrogen and gets the pile to heat up faster.
If your pile stinks your not doing it right

When making compost it'll take 6-12 months, if your using one of the spinning compost makers it'll be done sooner....but there won't be a whole lot of it.....and you'll always need more than you think......For Example>>>>If you're building a new 4'x8', and are adding 4" of good compost you'll need just over a 1/3 a yard or 5-6 bags {2cubic feet sized bags}.

Compost can be purchased in bulk or in bags, of course bulk is about 1/2 the cost of bagged, and you'll need a truck to do it.

I'll be getting bulk mushroom compost, "Black Gold",in by this Thur.1/24....This is the same wonderful stuff we always carried at the nursery...................$45 for 1 yard...$27 for 1/2 a yard....or $5.25 bag your own, I supply the bag, and if you bring the bag back to get a refill I give you a 50¢ discount, you can do this over and over again because the bags are heavy duty, and actually cost me 50¢ each, so the refills are $4.75 .................For bulk it is a "Load Your Own" deal, so bring your shovel and gloves.

I also carry pre bagged Organic compost, at $7.50 @ bag

When buying compost take the time to feel it, smell it, check it out for fillers like sand, and identifiable chunks{not cooked all the way down}..........Be an educated consumer---Unfortunately organics has become a big enough business that marketing can be misleading, and the quality of the products can be questionable to say the least

So now that I've given you a crash course on Compost,.....He-He....Lets get to the other important things to consider when doing good soil prep.........

 The 2nd  thing  we should all be adding to our garden beds is Expanded Shale----this is the wonder material that makes a huge difference, it is the scrap produced from cutting shale, these small gravel like pieces are baked at an extremely hot temp, which causes them to become very porous. It's advantages are----

Water retention-- when water passes through it, it will absorb the excess, which in turn gives your plants thousands of little reservoirs to pull moisture from, allowing your water to go further, and it cuts down on wilting too.----{and it will help save your garden if we go into Water Restrictions}
Drainage--Most plants don't like sitting in water, and they need air flow around their roots as well as their tops.

And then there's my favorite aspect of using Expanded Shale
Stopping the re-compression of our garden soil---Our soil is so nice in late winter and early spring, but even though we've loosened it up and added compost, there comes a time when we are watering daily---this act alone, which can't be avoided, re-compresses our soils...........Then there is the hot summer months that bake it back into a brick.................
EXPANDED SHALE WILL HELP PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING................The only trick is you need to use the proper amount which is 2-3" worth...... if you get 1 bag and spread it over that new 4'x8' bed your not going to see any benefit from it at all........Also a heads up if your planning on buying a garden mix or landscape mix that clams it has expanded shale already added---almost always they have not used enough to make a difference---when you inspect it before buying, reach in and grab  a handful, 1/4-1/3 should be shale.....if not you'll need to add more.......

 We as gardeners need to do everything we can to make our water go further....and adding expanded shale into your beds is one of the steps we can take.......It is unique in the sense it only needs to be added once, and it doesn't leach away, it suspends itself in the soil and doesn't break down for 25 years!!!....This also means IT HAS TO BE MIXED INTO THE SOIL, it won't move down on it's own.

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set part 2 - next post

[Brian Gallimore]

part 2 of 1/22/2013 newsletter:

This is what I call "Val's Foundation Formula"......this really works and it's easy, and can also be applied to container growing.....



#1 start with 4" of native soil---don't throw away or dig out the soil you have in your garden or in the new area your preparing---USE IT!!!!.......All my beds started with what was here naturally, and I say 4", because that's about how deep most of our topsoils are in this area........dig down, loosening soil and removing all weeds, roots, and unwanteds........STOP when you get to the white rock........the soil life of the top soil needs to stay "On Top", not buried under the rock because you went berserk with a roto tiller......if your using a tiller stop when you reach the rock layer....
#2 add 4" of good compost, { or as a rule, an equal amount of compost per native soil........3"topsoil--3" compost}
#3 add 2"-4" of expanded shale.
Then loosely mix these 3

A lot of people ask about raised beds, and I think they work great here because of all of the material we add to the existing soil height, the 3 ingredients listed above will need at least and extra 6-8" to accommodate them.....I personally would shoot for 12"......you've gotta' leave room for the 2-3" of mulch you'll add at the end.....
You can build your beds out of any kind of materials......cinder blocks, untreated lumber, rocks, downed cedar trees, the list is endless...........................There are things I wouldn't use because they will contaminate my soil, these would be things like rail road ties, and treated lumber.

After you have the bed built, and have mixed the 3 main ingredients your main foundation is now prepared---CONGRATULATIONS!!
Now for the balancing act of amendments............
There are all kinds of things you could add to bring the Ph of the soil to a neutral place.....This is where that soil test I mentioned above comes into play.....

But, I also have a basic, "Val's Amendment Formula".....
You'll need to add things, to bring up the Nitrogen level, sweeten the soil, encourage the soil life, and to add iron and other trace minerals because most of these things aren't found in any measurable amounts in our soil.....A good thing to keep in mind is .and you will apply a heavy dusting of each of the 4 amendments listed below to the surface of the prepared garden soil and water well to start the leaching process.....
............the formula goes like this

#1---Alfalfa meal....This adds much needed nitrogen to our soil
#2---Dry molasses....this is a natural sugar / carbohydrate........It feeds and activates microbial activity, and it's also what flows through plants' veins--and it adds a higher sugar content to your fruits and veggies
#3---Texas Greensand....This isn't actually sand, it just feels like it.....It adds up to 20% iron, and a multitude of trace minerals.
#4---D.E. ...Diatomaceous Earth.....a good source of calcium, other trace minerals, and also is very effective in the control of soil born insects.

And remember if it's not in your soil , it's not going to be in your food, and we all want our homegrown produce to be full of healthy nutrients
Now the only thing left to do is apply a heavy layer of mulch................The minute I have a bed prepped I put the mulch on, I do this to prevent weed seeds from invading my nice new bed, to help maintain moisture, keep the soil cooler, and probably the most important reason,  to protect all the wonderful microbials I just introduced when I added in the good quality compost. Besides it's really hard to get mulch down after you've planted all your young transplants, if it's already in place all you have to do is move it back from the area, do your planting, and then snug it back around your plant baby.

Mulch is imperative if you garden in Texas, it's like a wide brimmed hat for the soil...........There are lots of different kinds out there, my favorite is Cedar Mulch, it actually works as a bug and snake repellent, and as it breaks down and becomes part of the soil it adds a mild bit of acidity, and causes no adverse biological bo-bo's..... Hardwood mulch is my 2nd choice.................I'd stay away from dyed mulches, you don't want that leaching into your nice soil, same with plastic and rubber mulch.............Everything you put in or on the soil will eventually make it's way into the plant, the produce, and then YOU!...Soft wood mulches--like chipped up trash trees can bring in problems like termites, and wood roaches....
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NOW  ON TO THE MOON NEWS............

Tues,1/22 and Wed1/,23......the moon will be in Gemini--an air sign.....and we're in the 1st Quarter moon phase too................it's an ok day for working on your soil, but there's also your garden tools....This is a good time to sharpen them up, scrape off the caked dirt and rust----I use a small grinder on my stuff.......then a little oiling goes a long way, Don't throw away old oil from the kitchen, put it out in the shed with the tools. {I'm not talking about motor oil---I use old olive, canola,and grape seed oils}
Thur.1/24 and Fri.1/25 the moon moves into Cancer a water sign........This would be a good time to feed your fruit trees, grapes, and berry bushes with dry molasses, or tree treatment fertilizer....it'll pay you back later...................It's also a good time to plant a small fruit tree or blackberry, or even a grape----Just don't plant potatoes and onions yet---too early.
If you were planning to seed tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and the like, this would be a great day for it----I'm right in the middle of seeding all the heirloom organic veggies that I'll have out for sale in late March......Oh, there's so many good ones!!!!!
Sat.1/26,{Full Moon} Sun.1/27, and Mon.1/28the moon enters Leo---a fire sign----This is what I've always called "A Killing Moon"---Mow the lawn, or even better, start digging out that patch of grass where the new gardens going---you'll be more successful with the weed eradication, just do all you can to get all the roots out too---let the killing moon work with you.
Tue.1/29 and Wed.1/30 the moon will be in Virgo---an earth sign----great day to play in the dirt---get out those tools and have at it. .  Beware of excessive digging or tilling when the soil is too wet.....Old farmers have a soil test they do before they break out the plow, they go out into their field and pick up a handful of soil and squeeze it......if it stays in a clump it's too wet to plow, if it runs like dust through their fingers, it's too dry to plow.......but if it crumbles as they release their grip then it's just right to get to work.............If you dig or till when the soil is soaking wet you'll end up with clods you'll never be able to get rid of.....so don't do it!......... Pulling weeds out would be ok to do though, and the wet soil lets them come out root and all much easier.

Thur.1/31 and Fri.2/1the moon moves into Libra---an air sign....Keep working on your beds.
Sat.2/2 The Free Class Day, and Sun.2/3the moon will be in Scorpio---a water sign, but the Last Quarter Moon  phase starts too........A lot of folks shoot for Feb1st to plant onions and potatoes, but with the moon in a water sign I wouldn't.........................Often enough when root crops are planted in water signs they tend to rot....................this is true for potatoes, onions,beets, carrots,-----plant this stuff in an earth sign for best results.
Also it's a good time to cut all your perennials back----except, roses, salvias, and tender plants......leave them alone till Valentines Day
Mon.2/4 and Tue.2/5 the moon enters Sagittarius--a fire sign.......in the last quarter-----Killing Moon----fight weeds, dig out unwanteds before they take over, mow, and work on getting those beds ready
Wed.2/6 and Thur2/7, and Fri.2/8--till about noon the moon will be riding through Capricorn--- an Earth Sign, you could plant your potatoes and onions now if you have to, the only thing that will be against you is the Last Quarter Moon phase---it retards growth..............It would be better to just keep working on your beds.
Sat.2/9 and most of Sun.2/10  the moon will be going into Aquarius---an air sign, and the New Moon Phase begins................New moon phases aren't the best for root crops, keep working on the soil
Mon.2/11, and Tue 2/12 the moon goes into wonderful watery Pisces..........This is the time to plant those things we harvest above the soil line......spinach,, arugula, swiss chard, peas,and cilantro......The cool season stuff.
Wed.2/13 and Thur.2/14 the moon enters Aries----a fire sign............not conducive to encouraging growth----go back to mowing, weeding, and digging
Fri.2/15, Sat.2/16, and most of Sun.2/17, are the ideal days to plant the potatoes and onions, and asparagus as well.
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I am open Thur. and Sat. from 10am till 6pm, as usual..........

Directions to Val's Place---1007 West Belt line Rd. , Cedar Hill, TX, 75104 .............Day time # cell 972-207-2938.....
IF YOU'RE COMING OFF 67, just exit at Belt Line--{ NOTE-- the 1382/ belt line exit IS NOT THE RIGHT  ONE-  Belt Line is the next exit south of 1382 } , and go west towards the towers--you'll go straight through 2 lights,{Uptown and Main }, once you go over the R x R tracks, I'm the 6th house on right, an old, white, Victorian with a wrap around front porch.  Turn in on the dirt drive just beyond the house and follow the parking signs to the back

Directions: I'm about 2 minutes from where the nursery was.....IF YOU'RE AT THE NURSERY, continue south on Straus, {towards old down town Cedar Hill}, at the stop sign go left ,over the R x R tracks, and follow the curve of the road up to the light, go right at the light ---you'll be on West Belt Line --go over the R x R tracks again, and I'm the 6th house on the right. A one story white Victorian with a wrap around front porch, just past the house is a dirt drive  turn in there and follow the parking signs to the back

 I so look forward to seeing all of you----Till then, Happy thoughts, and I'll see you in the garden......Love, Val

[Brian Gallimore]

1/27/2013:

Hello Veggie Gardeners and Organic Folk,

Just wanted to let ya'll know.....In case you didn't get the last email---{a few of ya'll mentioned you hadn't}
The first Free class of the year will be Sat. 2/2/13, @ 10:30am, " Knowing Your Soil",--- this is the most important class I teach...Without a basic understanding of how soil works and how to balance, nurture and protect it you will never be a truly successful gardener............For those of you just starting out I highly recommend you attend this one.........I will cover soil testing,... soil as a living organism,....and all the organic soil amendments and their uses,....This is for beginners as well as seasoned gardeners and is information I base all of my gardening, teaching , and writing on.

SOIL PREPARATION....IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, that is if your hoping to be successful.............I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH...........Your soil is the foundation of your garden.......You wouldn't build a house, move in the furniture, and hang the drapes if there wasn't a good foundation sitting under it, Would you?

The beginning of the gardening season starts NOW---What I mean by "NOW", is getting the gardens prepped before it's time to plant.......It seems most of us don't consider the gardens until we're purchasing plants and seeds, and we don't realize how much work there is to do before we pop them in the ground.....

  I am asking people to sign up for the class so I'll have an idea about how many handouts to print and chairs to set up. Just RSVP me via email....Thank you....
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---- As of this coming Thur, I'll be fully stocked with organics

----Bulk Mushroom soil is in !!!!

----I have onion slips and seed potatoes and the  Organic, 2013, veggie seeds
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I am open Thur. and Sat. from 10am till 6pm, as usual..........

Directions to Val's Place---1007 West Belt line Rd. , Cedar Hill, TX, 75104 .............Day time # cell 972-207-2938.....
IF YOU'RE COMING OFF 67, just exit at Belt Line--{ NOTE-- the 1382/ belt line exit IS NOT THE RIGHT  ONE-  Belt Line is the next exit south of 1382 } , and go west towards the towers--you'll go straight through 2 lights,{Uptown and Main }, once you go over the R x R tracks, I'm the 6th house on right, an old, white, Victorian with a wrap around front porch.  Turn in on the dirt drive just beyond the house and follow the parking signs to the back

 I so look forward to seeing all of you----Till then, Happy thoughts, and I'll see you in the garden......Love, Val

[Brian Gallimore]

Gardening tips for 2/15-3/5
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Hello Veggie Gardeners and Organic Folk,

That beautiful limey green of the New Season is starting to pop, the robins are back, and the earth's energy starts pushing outward again----I love this time of year
 Spring is "Springing"........There's so many things we need to think about for our gardens and yards
I am ONLY open Thursdays and Saturdays 10am till 6pm for people to come by.......I am not here everyday, if you need something on another day you can call me 972-207-2938, and Peter or I will try to accommodate you......Thanks

It's time to fertilize everything!!!!
There's lots of things you can use to do this.........My Regiment includes a good organic fertilization of Lady Bug or Texas Tee.......both will cover 4,000 sq ft of lawn and foundation plantings---don't forget your shrubs, grasses, and trees........Texas Tee is the oldest truly organic lawn fert. in Texas 6-2-4, and a fav' of organic users.......Lady Bug 8-2-4 has been one I've always loved, and I use it on my flower beds as well........

AND THEN THERE'S HUMATE.......this is 70% humidic acid, it promotes your soil life, binds with your soil thus breaking down our large soil particles.......This allows water to go a lot further, keeps your soil looser and actually gives it the texture of coffee grounds !!!!!......I apply this every 2 years for the yard, and for my veggie gardens I do it every year----You have to try it to believe it.................Jay Mertz, who founded Rabbit Hill, and is big with TOFGA--Texas Organic Farmers and Growers Association, got me hooked on Humate years ago.
 
For the acid loving things----like Azaleas, Hydrangeas, Gardenias, Blueberries, and Raspberries----I use Rabbit Hills "Azalea Food",{ this is for all acid loving things, Azaleas are just the most common here, that's why they call it that}.

For amazing flowers, whether they're in the ground, or in a pot on the front porch, I use Rabbit Hills "Buds and Blooms"----especially when I plant annuals, ..Those pansies and violas looking a little leggy,and flowerless?.......cut them back and throw some of this towards them......and it is a good organic fertilizer, so once they get going again you can add the flowers to a salad.......Viola and pansy flowers are edible.....but you don't want to serve them to some unsuspecting guest if you've been using Miracle-Gro on them---it may turn them blue !
As an all purpose in the veggie gardens there's Rabbit.Hills "Garden Food"-----It's great for everything except Tomatoes and Peppers, this is because they don't produce well if they get too much nitrogen---the rest of the veggie world loves it though---
This is THE TIME to feed your Roses......I carry Rabbit Hills "Rose Food", and it's one of the best I've ever used......Your roses will love you for it!!!
Valentines Day is the time to start cutting back and feeding your roses...This is the best opportunity you have to reshape your gangely rose bushes, so be aggressive!!! ...........
Roses LOVE to be cut on, and when you cut them your telling them to grow..............I cut back at least 40-50% of the total bush, and every 3-4 years I go in and thin out the old cane by cutting them off at ground level..................#1---remove anything thats dead................#2---thin out the old cane if needed ................#3---remove any branches that are growing inward, or rubbing against other branches.....Rubbing causes wounds which isn't good, and roses need the light and air  to flow through them to keep the fungal issues down, so stuff growing inward isn't good either......#4--- then trim back the long skinny cane that just has leaf at the top, it takes a lot of energy to get water and food up there, so by shortening the distance it has to travel it will reward you by blooming better.....NOTE, when cutting back look at the nodes, these are the so called "Joints", you want to cut above the joint by about 1/2-1", and look for one that has the little leaf bud facing outward, {cut above one of those}.....This is the direction the next branch will take---and you want it to be outward, not in towards the center.
IMPORTANT NOTE---Don't cut back climbing roses until after they bloom or you'll be cutting off the long laterals { long arms}, that are going to be the blooms for Spring....Cut back after bloom time is over---unless you've got one of those long arms reaching out and grabbing you every time you go for the front door

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On to the Moon News.....

Fri.2/15, Sat.2/16, and Sun.2/17 the Moon will be in Taurus----an earth sign-----I've been waiting for this---it's the perfect time for planting ALL root crops......Potatoes, onions, carrots, radishes, beets, turnips, and it's actually also a good time for stuff like Arugula, swiss chard, kale, peas, parsley, kohlrabi, turnips, {and even lettuces--if your willing to protect them from a freeze}.......,.....MOST all of the veggies listed above have edible foliage.....this is the way our garden can supplement our diets daily,.....MOST all of the veggies listed above have edible foliage.....
DON'T EAT THE TOPS OF POTATOES, OR CARROTS---
And don't forget it's also the time to cut and feed your roses !!!!!!
Mon.2/18 and Tue.2/19 the moon goes into Gemini---an air sign, and the First Quarter Moon phase has begun.....1st quarter moon is about outward growth, and is a good time for encouraging things to grow,......this includes "cutting stuff back", to encourage New Growth....All those perennials that die back to the ground, need to have the old dead cut down.....and things like Salvia Greggii---these are often referred to as Autumn Sage---need to be cut back by at least 1/2......Also, trim your herbs back to the new healthy growth..........................And don't forget to FEED EVERYTHING---you'll be rewarded with a beautiful Spring show....
Wed.2/20, Thur.2/21, and Fri.2/22 the moon moves into Cancer---a water sign.....and we'll still be in the 1st quarter.........lovely time to continue playing and planting in the garden, I try to avoid planting root planting root crops during "Water signs", it encourages root rot, but all the other things would be fine.....
Sat.2/23 and Sun.2/24 the moon will be in Leo---a fire sign, this is NOT a good time for growing, it would be much better used mowing, pulling weeds, or clearing spaces for new beds----It's what I call a Killing Moon.......
Mon.2/25 and Tue.2/26 goes into Virgo---an earth sign, and we'll have the full moon with us Monday as well........If you need to finish some things up in the garden, these days would be ok----but probably the best way to spend this energy would be working on your soil health......Healthy soil is the best way to fight fungus, disease, and viruses that attack our plants----So spend some time top dressing those old tired perennial beds with compost---or Humate, it can really make a difference, and replenish the mulch as well, it'll cut down on weeds, aide with moisture retention, and protects soil life.
Wed.2/27 and Thur.2/28 the moon moves into Libra---an air sign......continue to cut back, feed, and dress your gardens and beds.
Fri.3/1, Sat.3/2, and Sun.3/3 till around 3pm, the moon will be in Scorpio--a water sign----keep planting and seeding---this is one of my favorite planting moons---Full Moon in a water sign---doesn't get much better than that.
Late Sun.3/3 afternoon, Mon.3/4 and Tue.3/5, the moon goes through Sagittarius--a fire sign, and the Last Quarter Moon phase starts on Monday----The last quarter is about deterring growth, so are fire signs----Mow,  weed, and tackle all those baby Hackberry, Elm, and Oak trees that have sprouted up in your gardens....Better know than later.
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Potatoes and Onions.....

I know there are a lot of you that might enjoy getting some planting and growing info on potatoes and onions, so I'm going to give you the low down on each.

There's a lot of back and fourth on the date for planting onions and potatoes......Some say Feb 1st, others say Feb 15th-----I always go with the 15th
Potato Info...

First you should know a freshly grown potato tastes so much better than one from the store, you won't believe the difference!
One pound of seed potatoes should produce 6-9 lbs of potatoes.
Maintain soil or mulch over potatoes to prevent exposure to sunlight which can cause greening or sunburn. The "green" portions can be toxic, and studies show it's linked to Alzheimer's.
Hilling is important because potatoes form above the roots and below the foliage....you will add more soil or mulch as they grow to give them more production space, and "Yes " this means you will be covering some of the leaves as the plant gets taller---but never all the leaves
To begin...

Cut seed potatoes into chunks, each containing 2-3 eyes at least.........Roll these in Soft rock phosphate or bone meal, this is to prevent rotting.{ I use soft rock phosphate}. Allow to callous over for 2-4 days in a cool, dark dry place before planting., .......I stay away from sulfur, or wood ash.......Sulfur is detrimental to the microbial life in your soil, and can be harmful to plants as well........Wood ash adds alkalinity to your soil, and Lord knows we don't need that---at least here.
Soil Prep and Planting....

Start with well prepared garden soil.........{See--- Val's Foundation Formula, and Val's Amendment Formula from my email of 1-22-13}.........If your soils not balanced, and enriched the directions below won't do you much good.
Think about your spacing, each row of potatoes should be 2-3' wide, and the pieces should be placed 10-12" apart---if you crowd them you won't get much of anything...

Start by hilling up mounds or rows---remembering each plant will need space

Put a good handful of "Val's Planting Mix"--this is a 50/50 mix of Soft Rock Phosphate and Worm Castings, in each hole....I use this whenever I do planting or seeding, and it makes a huge difference in how well things do.
Place the potato pieces in the hole cut side down, this also helps keep water from pooling on the cut and causing it to rot .
Mulch well, and water in with Sea Mist or seaweed---this is a root stimulator
Don't forget to hill up more--adding more soil or mulch, as they grow.
2-3 weeks after planting apply a heavy dose of nitrogen---alfalfa meal, {they love it} ...Reapply every 3 weeks....You'll just be sprinkling it on the surface and watering it in...When they begin to bloom stop adding the nitrogen, cause you'll be harvesting soon.
For "Super Potatoes", I'll dig a trench 4"-5" deep and 5"-8" wide, just mound your soil up on either side of the trench..... Then line your trench with 1" of extra compost, and then 1" of extra expanded shale---This will keep the soil loose and well drained, which is very important if you want a good crop, and it works as a Back Up food source...........Rake the garden soil back into the trench and hill it down the center..........
{I realize if you did the proper prep these will already be present in your soil.........your just putting EXTRA directly under them......That's why they'll be "Super Potatoes"}......
If you don't want to go the extra mile that's cool, the important thing is starting with well prepared soil.......


Harvesting, Storing and Drying Potatoes....

Harvest, for fresh eating, when foliage begins to turn brown, usually in 3-4 months-- Be careful when digging them up or you'll stab them, shovels are the worst, digging forks are better, I prefer to pull the plant up and then lift them out by hand.

For good storage wait till the foliage is completely brown and dead for 2 weeks...then dig them up and cure them by laying them out in a well ventilated area, in darkness if possible, where temps are around 50-60degrees---avoid piling them up while they are curing, this usually takes a week or so.....If you want to dig them earlier, so you can have the garden space for something else that's ok, the curing process will just take longer.

Store them in a med cool place, away from direct light...avoid putting them in a plastic bag, I use old card board boxes or paper bags.....Also, the cooler the space the longer they'll keep.

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Onion Info....

The stalks of an onion are very important, each stalk represents a layer of onion....so don't cut them off because they've flopped over...leave them be.
If the tips of the stalks turn yellow, or dry out it is a sign that they are not receiving the moisture they need.
They need full sun, good drainage, and regular water to do well.
I like to plant my onions along the borders of my gardens, they take up less space that way and also help to deter bugs----most bugs have a very high sense of smell, and most don't like the smell of onions or garlic.

Soil Prep and Growing....

Again, start with well prepared garden soil.........{See--- Val's Foundation Formula, and Val's Amendment Formula from my email of 1-22-13}.........If your soils not balanced, and enriched, the directions below won't do you much good.
Think about your spacing, each row of onions should be at least 4-5" wide, and the slips should be placed 4" apart, and 2" deep
Start by digging a trench  4" deep and 3" wide.
 
Line the trench with a heavy dusting of "Val's Planting Mix"---soft rock phosphate and worm castings.
Trim off all but the top 2" of the green tops---this will mean your slips will be 4-5" total---Place the onion slips so they are about 2" deep and about 4" apart.....They need this space to become Big Onions......Or you can plant them every 2" and as they grow you can pull every other one to use as green onions, and allow the others to have the space they need.

Mulch well with Cedar or Hardwood Mulch
Water in with Sea Mist or seaweed to get them going
They also love extra nitrogen just like potatoes, so 3 weeks after planting apply a good dusting of Alfalfa Meal, and repeat every 3 weeks up to mid April.
For "Super Onions" dig a trench 5" deep and 3-4" wide.
Put 1" expanded shale and 1" of compost in the trench, then put 1" of the garden soil back in the trench, this will leave you with a 2" deep trench to place the onion slips in. The expanded shale and extra compost will be there when the roots start to stretch down and will help to insure that your onions get big!...I get so many people telling me their onions never get large---this will make a difference.

Harvesting and Drying Onions...

You'll harvest when the necks begin to soften and the tops begin to fall over at a rate of 70-90%, generally May is the harvesting time.
If they begin to send up a flower stock because we've gotten hot fast I would harvest them. If allowed to bloom you won't get any onions....

When digging them out do your best to leave the tops, skins and roots intact.....They bruise easily so be gentle

If Drying----Leave leave roots and tops on while drying----lay them out on an elevated old screen, out of direct light, and away from moisture. A fan can help as well.
Allow 8-15 days to dry. Then remove roots and cut off tops leaving at least 1" of neck.

To store them, avoid heaping them in piles---remember they bruise easily....You can use a card board box with some holes cut out, laundry baskets, or one of my favorite--old panty hose, just load them in 1 at a time and tie a knot then load in another and tie a knot, and so on and so on.....You can hang these in a garage and just cut one loose any time you need it....It'll keep them from going soft or bruising.
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 I am fully stocked with Organics---Compost, mulch, expanded shale, and basic amendments..........All the fertilizers and foods for the various things in our world.......And I also have organic seed, seed potatoes, and onion slips......


Hope to see you in the garden----Val

[Brian Gallimore]

4/22/2013

Hello Veggie Gardeners and Organic Folk,

This Spring has reminded me of the mythical Dr. Doolittle character, the "Push-Me-Pull-Me".........it's hot for a few days then we're flirting with a freeze....back and forth, back and forth...This can wreak havoc on your gardens-especially for the warm weather things like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, squash and cucumbers.......A temp of 40 or less and they start to stress out, and cool soil temps can stunt them---you won't know this for awhile but if you notice your plants not changing much in size, very little if any new growth, or just looking kind of weak, they could be stunted---Good news it's not to late to replace them.
So for all of you who worked so hard to get your soil right--Which, by the way, is the hard part......replacing some plants isn't such a big deal.....So take heart, you still have time...
Unfortunately, the next big challenge we face as gardeners is "The Bugs"!!!!
Next Free Class...."Good Bugs, Bad Bugs", Saturday May 5th @ 10am

If your gonna' garden in Texas you have to know your bugs!!!!!, and how to deal with them, and how to implement preventative measures..........Do the Squash Bugs get your Squash every year?.......Are there caterpillars flying out of the trees at you?.......Getting eaten alive by fleas and chiggers?....Overrun with pill bugs, thrips, aphids?.............I'll show you the good, {a lot of bugs are gardeners friends}, and the bad,..... how you can ID them,.... their life cycles,.... and how to deal with them organically........I'll also be discussing some fungal problems we all seem to be having
Here's one for ya'--"Do you know what the nymph stage of a Ladybug looks like?"----A lot of folks don't----So as a rule I suggest you not just kill something cause you don't know what it is....Investigate!!--Knowledge is Power, and will make you a much better gardener...So come to the class and get some bug knowledge that you can put to work when you get home.....

Please RSVP if your planning on coming to the class, it gives me a good idea of how many chairs to set up and handouts to print.
Class will be here, 1007 West Belt Line Rd, Cedar Hill Texas, 75104..........If you need to reach me, Val, 972-207-2938

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Keep in mind ignoring the bugs will not make them go away,  and poisoning them is a horrible idea !!!!!
--I'm gonna' jump on my soapbox for a moment---The US Government came out with a report about 2 years ago.....I saw it on Night Line, and then on every news report that same night......It stated that the issues that we're seeing in children, like ADHD, ADD, as well as other mental and respiratory disorders are DIRECTLY associated with the pesticides on our food supply----they actually used the word, DIRECTLY......So please, consider what your doing before you sprinkle Seven Dust on everything.......There are always organic alternatives, but it will take your participation, patience, and the observation of your environment to be successful---But in turn you will be closer to your piece of the planet, you will, in time see it as an extension of yourself......A garden not only nourishes us it also teaches us, and our children the beautiful cycles of life.

Rejoice in this on Earth Day.......Monday the 22nd.........Really, every day is Earth Day....

 

As far as The Bugs, here are some you need to keep a look out for.....

Pill Bugs,doodle bugs, rolly pollys----many names, but you'll now them from the way they roll up into little balls when you touch them.........Most folks don't realize they're as damaging as slugs and snails......but they love tasty young plants---especially greens like lettuce....If your wondering, "could this be the culprit munching my garden up?", go out there in the evening with a flashlight and look around---they feed at night, so do slugs and snails.....all three are a big issue and will devastate a young garden.......Organically there's only one answer to them, "Sluggo Plus", it not only works on the pill bugs but also the slugs and snails....
4-Lined Plant Bug----this elusive little monster will suck the life out of a garden in nothing flat.......you'll notice the damage on mints, oreganos, and salvias......on the mints and oreganos it will be tiny little dots of black,.......depending on the salvia/sage it will either be black or cream colored dots, this damage is caused from them sucking the chlorophyll out of the plants leaves.......I have battled these for years and know of only one way to stop them----I douse them with Mound Drench----a combo of orange oil and liquid molasses, in a base of compost tea.
Orange Oil is a natural degreaser---most hard bodied bugs have a greasy exoskeleton and the contact of the oil will degrade it.
Liquid Molasses is a naturally occurring sugar/sap---most hard bodied insects breath through their exoskeletons and if they're coated in molasses they suffocate.
Compost tea is actually compost soaked in water---like a tea bag---{but a bit more complicated}, and works as a good base for the other 2 ingredients...bugs don't like the smell either, which is a plus.
Unfortunately the FDA has got their hand in the labeling of "Mound Drench", but you can still get the single ingredients and mix yourself, that's what I'm doing, if you need some try to bring an old gallon jug with you and we'll make you up a batch.
Canker Worms----These are the small light green inch worms, they drift out of the trees on fine silk lines......The easiest and best way to deal with them is to release Tricogramma Wasps---these guys are tiny----it takes 5 of them to equal the size of a mosquito........I carry the egg strips, 3@$18, this will do 1/4 acre......
They hatch very rapidly, mate and lay their eggs into the caterpillar eggs, where their larva feed off the caterpillar larva, thus no caterpillars.......If your seeing them, your a little late, but getting the tricogrammas out will start to make a dent,....... I controlled an enormous population {Millions}, within 2-3 years, by just putting up strips each spring.......These guys will eat everything, but you can protect your veggies, and flowers with Dipel Dust----powdered Bt----this is a pathogen that only works on caterpillars.
All the products I suggest are organic controls, safe around people, pets and kids.
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On to the Moon News......

Earth Day, Mon.4/22 the moon is in Virgo---an "earth" sign, and we're in the First Quarter Moon Phase, this makes it an average day to play with the plants, but a really good day to prepare soil in gardens or in pots........Get your hands in the Earth today!
Tue.4/23 and Wed.4/24 the moon moves into Libra---a lovely air sign.....one of balance and beauty.......make up some beautiful pots of heat loving color for the porch or deck.....The key is to choose plant material that will look good for along time like dianthus, zinnias, gazinnias, sweet potato, purslane, blue daze, coleus-{beware there are sun varieties and shade varieties}, pentas, Dalenburg Daisy, silver falls dicondra, angelonia, impatiens, vinca, and million bells................and realize regular dead-heading and feeding will make all the difference in the world......I've got great summer stuff in stock and more will be here by Sat.4/27........
Here's an old formula for great pots, "Thriller"--the tall thing in the middle,... "Filler"--the color bushing around the lip of the pot,....and "Spiller"--the trailing over the side plant......this is how to do it like a pro!
Thur.4/25 and Fri.4/26the moon goes into Scorpio---a water sign, and the Full Moon is Thur. too.............this is the time to plant corn---the full moon is great for it......it also good for beans, squash, more tomatoes and peppers--{in case they're stunted}, as well as perennials, summer annuals, and herbs.
Sat.4/27 and Sun.4/28 the moon will be in Sagittarius--a fire sign---don't play with the plants on these days, use this moon time to pull weeds, mow the lawn, and get ahead of the bugs.
Mon.4/29 and Tue.4/30 the moon travels into Capricorn---an earth sign, one of the best for working the soil, but it's also pretty good for playing with the plants......This will be the last really good time for the next 9 days.
Mayday Wed.5/1, Thur.5/2, and Fri.5/3--till about 3pm, the moon will sit in Aquarius--an air sign, and the Last Quarter Moon Phase begins on Thur. as well.....Last Quarters are not good  for encouraging new growth......do lawn maintenance, and remember to "stop and smell the roses", so to speak.......This would be a good time to start doing daily inspections---as organic gardeners we need to be aware of what's going on out there, if you find problems when they're just starting it's a lot easier to deal with them.........Get a glass of wine after work and go out and spend some time meandering through the garden.....Enjoy the beauty you've nurtured.
Fri.5/3 afternoon, Sat.5/4 and Sun.5/5 the moon moves into Pisces--a water sign which is usually pretty good for planting, but we do have this Last Quarter Moon working against that, if it's the only time you have to get it done go for it......Just do all the usual extras to help everything along.........Aside from well prepared soil, rich in Organic matter, I ALWAYS put a handful of dry food in the hole--{Tomato/pepper Food, Garden Food, Val's Mix, or Bud's and Blooms}, This is a long slow release of food for the plant, and then I always water in with a Seaweed product--{I use Seamist--it's the best}........Seaweed is the best root stimulator in the world---and even out does it's chemical cousins, like miracle grow........I also use it to help germinate seed, do root cuttings and help discourage bugs---they hate the smell.......I'll foliare feed with Seamist every 10-14 days as a preventative, and as an easy fast way to feed my gardens and greenhouses........Any good garden guru will tell you healthy plants can withstand the on slots of nature.......including being more heat tolerant---that'll make a big difference when it's 100 degrees everyday.........
Mon.5/6 and Tue.5/7 the moon will be in Aries--a fire sign, in the last quarter, equals a "Killing Moon"........step away from the garden, unless your squishing bad bugs, or pulling weeds......this is a time for discouraging growth.
Wed.5/8, Thur.5/9, and Fri.5/10 the moon goes into Taurus---an earth sign, and the New Moon Phase begins on Thur too......Along with a solar eclipse......Wow.......Power packed day!.........Wonderful for gardening----go play in the dirt----
Sat.5/11 and Mother's Day, Sun.5/12 the moon will be in Gemini--an air sign----but with the New Moon with us it's still a good day to putter in the garden..............If your looking for a good gift I've gotten in some old antique roses that really rock the world, as well as all kinds of native perennials.......Let mom have a "Plant Spree"---Woo-Hoo.....This was a gift I gave my mom, the gardener, every year, and she just loved it.......
This will be my 1st Mother's Day without my mom, oh how I miss her, but I do get to see her in my garden everyday, through the plants we shared, and the garden art she'd given me over the years.........I love you Mother---I'm always with you.

I am open Thursdays and Saturdays from 10am till at least 6pm..........I'm stocked with all the great plants, and good organics.....

See you in the garden, Val

[Brian Gallimore]

4/30/2013

Hello All,
I made a Boo-Boo, ......The class is still THIS COMING SATURDAY, I just got the date wrong........Saturday is not the 5th, it's actually the 4th............sorry if it's caused any inconvenience...

For those of you who haven't heard about the class here's the info...
Next Free Class...."Good Bugs, Bad Bugs", Saturday May 4th @ 10am

If your gonna' garden in Texas you have to know your bugs!!!!!, and how to deal with them, and how to implement preventative measures..........Do the Squash Bugs get your Squash every year?.......Are there caterpillars flying out of the trees at you?.......Getting eaten alive by fleas and chiggers?....Overrun with pill bugs, thrips, aphids?.............I'll show you the good, {a lot of bugs are gardeners friends}, and the bad,..... how you can ID them,.... their life cycles,.... and how to deal with them organically........I'll also be discussing some fungal problems we all seem to be having
Here's one for ya'--"Do you know what the nymph stage of a Ladybug looks like?"----A lot of folks don't----So as a rule I suggest you not just kill something cause you don't know what it is....Investigate!!--Knowledge is Power, and will make you a much better gardener...So come to the class and get some bug knowledge that you can put to work when you get home.....

Please RSVP if your planning on coming to the class, it gives me a good idea of how many chairs to set up and handouts to print.
Class will be here, 1007 West Belt Line Rd, Cedar Hill Texas, 75104..........If you need to reach me, Val, 972-207-2938

Happy Gardening, Val

[admin]

9/23/2013

Hello Veggie Gardeners and Organic Folk,

Fall and the promise of cooler times has finally arrived.....The rain refreshed everything, my pepper plants don't look like starving men crossing a desert anymore, my Morning Glories woke up, and the arugula and cilantro I allowed to seed out are starting to germinate with this change in weather....Yippee!!!!
The fall garden class last Saturday was great, I really loved seeing ya'll.......Now it's time to get those Fall Gardens Going........Get your soil prepped---see last weeks email for any info you may need.......And remember your garden can only be as good as the foundation that's under it........Don't skimp on your soil.....
 It's time to fertilize your yard, trees, landscape beds, and your remaining summer veggies---tomatoes and peppers will reward you greatly in Oct---"Bumper Crops" ROCK.......

SEED NOW for Wild flowers like Larkspur, Poppies, Gallardia, Flax, Bluebonnets, Coreopsis, Coneflower, and MORE

Now on to the Moon News....

Sun.9/22 Fall Equinox....and Mon.9/23 the moon  goes into Taurus---an earth sign .......The window has opened  to get the Brassicas in, this includes broccoli, cabbage, and collards and the rest of their relatives, as well as starts of swiss chard, mustards, and fun stuff like artichokes............. Earth signs are also the best time to seed root crops like beets, carrots, scallions, turnips, and more........To be successful with this start with well prepared garden soil, {2-4"  of compost, and expanded shale--if it's not already there--this is your foundation........then a heavy dusting of TX greensand for iron and trace minerals......dry molasses for the sugar fix plants and soil life need.......and alfalfa meal to bring the nitrogen levels up---This is WELL PREPARED GARDEN SOIL }.......Now for the planting----start by getting your starter plants wet, don't take a dry plant out of it's pot or this will be the first mistake you make......

Dig your hole, water it well {planting wet to wet,..... wet plant,.....wet soil,..... this cuts down dramatically on transplant shock}, and then add a generous handful of Val's Planting Mix----This is a 50/50 mix of worm castings and soft rock phosphate......Worm castings are a wonderful way to feed young plants and can more than double their health and vigor, and as an added bonus there are always earth worm eggs in the castings so you'll be seeding earth worms as you go!!....The soft rock phosphate is Phosphorous, which is imperative for root development, branching, budding and fruit set.....Neither one of these will burn young plants and can't be over done, and your giving them a long slow food source...
Remove your plant from the pot and gently loosen the root ball, you don't want to put it in the hole if it's still in the shape of the pot, if you loosen it up you'll be encouraging it to send it's roots out in all directions instead of it just spinning on itself---this is very hard on plants because it's only able to pull food and moisture from the little cube/pot form, and will eventually strangle it's self to death...........Have you ever pulled up a little plant and noticed the root ball is still shaped like the pot it came in?.....If the root system can't spread out the plant won't do very well, so be gentle, but get the bottom roots opened up and squeeze the sides so you can see the little hair like roots extending outward.....This is another reason you water the plant first, if it's wet you won't tear them up as much....
Now place it in the hole, taking care not to bury it any deeper than it was in the pot, fill the soil in and firm it gently around the plant.
Once planted water it in with a root stimulator.....I love Sea Mist, as most of you know.......Seaweed is the best root stimulator on the planet!.....and the Sea Mist also has liquid molasses, garlic pepper tea, and enzymes in it, {the same ones found in Super Thrive}..........I ALWAYS water my plants and seeds in with it, in fact I use it on everything, whether it's a tree, an herb, a house plant, or my veggies---The stuff is Amazing, and I couldn't live without it.
Once everything is planted make sure you mulch it well---2-3" worth, this will help hold the moisture in, keep the soil cooler during warm weather and warmer in winter, and cut down on weed seeds....Don't go through the motions of planting a garden and then forget to mulch, or worse yet, think it's not that important-----It works like a big hat for the soil on hot sunny days, and a blanket for the soil on cold windy days......
Remember to water and inspect your young plants everyday---They're babies and their lives depend on you.

It's also an optimal moon to seed your Root Crops---Full moons in earth signs are the best---carrots, turnips, radishes, parsnips, scallions,leeks, and others
For Seeding, Start with reading all the info on the seed packet---
Days to emerge, this is how long it should take for them to poke their heads up......
Seed depth, the most common mistake folks make is not getting this right and often enough they put them in too deep, too deep and they won't work...............
Soil temps or when to start them, some seed companies will just when to start them--in spring, in fall, so many weeks before last, or first, frost dates...........Our first frost date is usually mid Nov.....So if a seed pack says 4 weeks before first average frost you count back from our average first frost date {mid-Nov}, which in our case would make it mid-Oct for those seeds to go in the ground...............
Spacing, and then final spacing, this is 2 different things, Spacing is how close you seed them to start out with, Final Spacing or "after thinning" is what amount of space each will need to mature.......We'll use carrots as an example, the final spacing would be 2", which is 2" between each carrot.....I know that may seem like a lot, but that's the amount of room they need to mature.........If plants are too crowded they'll fight for light, food, and water and will never live up to their potential...... and seeing things like carrots have such tiny seed it's really easy to have 10 coming up in that 2" space, so thinning is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT, if you don't do it you won't get anything, and if you wait too long you won't be able to without destroying all of them,.... I thin when they've gotten their first set of true leaves, this will be the 2nd set of leaves you see, the first set is just starter leaves.
Special seed instructions, this may include directions to soak over night before planting, or whether the plant need light to germinate......Read your seed packets completely before you start.....don't just go out there like some crazed seed fairy flinging them around or you might get nothing at all...
 
The steps below are the same for pots or garden space
#1.....Now that the soil is ready water it throughly before seeding, if you do this after you seed you run the chance of flushing the seed around to different depths
#2......For small seed like lettuce or carrots broadcast Val's Planting mix across the entire surface, for little rows or holes just line them generously with the mix
#3......Seed at the depth recommended on the seed pack, Remember, if it's in to deep it won't work.
 For seed requiring an 1/8" just sprinkle seed on surface and press in gently with the palms of your hands, then get your mulch out and dig around in the bottom of the bag for the fine dust like stuff.....do a dusting of this over your seed---this does add depth so be conscious of what your doing, remove any large chunks as you go.........., {This is Val's secret to keeping the seed protected, helps keep them from being sloshed around in the soil when watering and helps to maintain some moisture on the seed---if seed dries out-- IT WILL DIE},.
 For seed requiring 1/4" sprinkle seed on soil surface then take a couple of handfuls of fine garden soil, and dust the soil surface with it, then do the same mulch trick as described above.
 For seed requiring 1/2", make a slight impressioned row line seed in and smooth soil back over, and add mulch, and you can mound it up on either side of the row as well....
 For an 1" do the same as above just make it a tad deeper.......

After you've finished gently water in with Sea Mist..........Keep it moist, don't let it dry out!
Tue.9/24 and Wed.9/25  the moon floats into Gemini----an air sign...but a funny one----if your still working on planting and seeding, continue, because this will be the last good days you'll have till Oct.3rd.......when it'll be time to consider turnips, beets, collards, more lettuces and other cool greens
Thur.9/26, Fri.9/27 and Sat.9/28 the moon shines through Caner ---a water sign, Which is my favorite growing moons-----BUT the Last Quarter Moon Phase starts Thur. too.....Last quarters are all about discouraging growth.....and the phase will always out ride the sign the moons in........so it's back to mowing, weeding , and cleaning up the yard.
Sun.9/29, Mon.9/30 and most of Tue.10/1 the moon will sit in Leo---a fire sign, and with this last quarter moon phase it becomes the grand pappy of "Killing Moons"....if there is something in your world you would like to see eradicated this is a golden opportunity--- go after that poison ivy or the native Bermuda grass that's invading your beds......Just remember a sharp shooter and an attention to detail are your best allies----or a goat...............poisons spayed on leaves and roots usually don't do the trick and you can do damage to the trees that the ivy often grows on.....
Tue.10/1afternoon, Wed.10/2, and Thur.10/3 will be in Virgo---an earth sign--but a semi barren one, and we haven't gotten out of the last quarter phase yet.....Earth signs are good for cultivating soil so work on your gardens----or work on getting fertilizer out.......maybe prepping some areas for your wildflower seed.
Fri.10/4 and Sat.10/5 the moon goes into Libra---an air sign, but one of beauty and balance, and the New Moon Phase starts---Get those wild flower seeds planted, or if you were planning on adding some perennials, trees, shrubs nows a good time......If you do the larger material now, and into the fall or winter things will have a much easier time establishing......Most do this in the spring and then we get hot.... and the poor things struggle and often die----Fall Is Best.....
Sun.10/6 and Mon.10/7 the moon slips into Scorpio--a water sign, and we have New Moon energy with us!!!!!..Get out in the garden and plant and seed.......This is one of the absolute best times for encouraging growth.....Broccoli, cabbage, kale, peas, swiss chard, mustard, collards, lettuces, arugula, cilantro, cauliflower, and more.......you'll notice I did not list root crops like carrots, beets, etc. that's because those seeded in a water sign are more likely to rot.....wait on those till Thur or Fri, when the moon will be in Capricorn.
Tue.10/8 and Wed.10/9 the moon  enters Sagittarius---a fire sign.....Step away from the garden and go mow the lawn, or if you want to put out some Corn Glueton Meal to help prevent weeds---This is one of the only ways to control weeds organically---keep in mind the herbicides in things like "Weed and Feed", are nasty and toxic.....and aide in the demise of your trees and shrubs if used regularly........Not to mention what they do to us and our environment......But  Corn Glueton Meal is a natural pre-emergent, so timing is important, and it only works on the seeds of weeds.....If you choose to use it I recommend the powdered, the granulated/spreadable is far less affective and often a few dollars more.
Thur.10/10, Fri.10/11, and Sat.10/12 till around 1pm, the moon walks through Capricorn---an earth sign.....and the First Quarter Moon phase begins......Here's those days I spoke about that are best for seeding root crops, even though they're also good for planting anything else as well-----go dig in the dirt, and have fun, this beautiful weather doesn't last for long....
Sat.10/12 after 1pm, Sun.10/13, and most of Mon.10/14 the moon will be in Aquarius--an air sign.....Not the best for gardening, Just do yard work like mowing  or raking up the leaves.....I like to mow most of my leaves back in, it helps replenish the soil and serves as a light layer of mulch....But for those of you who making compost it's time to start bagging or collecting the leaves, they are a major ingredient for your efforts.......every time you throw kitchen scraps in the pile you should put in a layer of leaves......
the rule is 4 parts brown/leaves/carbon to 1 part green/ kitchen scraps/nitrogen.........
Mon. afternoon10/14, Tue.10/15 and Wed.10/16 the moon goes into Pisces---a water sign, and we still have the first quarter energy with us......Back to seeding and planting, just avoid the root crop seeding ----remember water signs encourage rotty root crops...
I'm open Thursdays AND Saturdays ONLY, 10am-6pm
I have in all my fall seed and veggie plants, and am stocked with the good organics........

Enjoy the weather--Happy Gardening---Val