Here is a pictorial set of instructions for building a raised bed as taught by the Citizen Gardener class for about $25.
Materials (use regular lumber, not chemical treated)
- QTY 1: 2 x 10 – 8′
- QTY 1: 2 x 10 – 10′
- QTY 1: 2 x 2 – 8′
- QTY 32: 2-1/2″ deck screws (1 lb box is enough)
- Outdoor wood glue (waterproof)
Cut Lumber
- Cut the 2×10-8′ in half so you have 2 48″ pieces
- Cut the 2×10-10′ into 2 51″ pieces
- Cut out 4 9″ pieces out of the 2×2-8
Note: I cut the 48 inch pieces a little long because I actually cut the 2×10-8′ in half. The box doesn’t wind up being a perfect square, but no one notices!
Assemble
- Joints are made using the combination of wood glue and deck screws.
- Attach the 2×2-9″ pieces to the long sides (51″ pieces) – locate the piece 1-1/2″ from the edge of the board (1-1/2″ is the width of the other board)
- Attach 48″ pieces (don’t forget to glue all mating surfaces)
- Ensure top edges of boards match so that top surface of bed will be level
- Check for squareness by comparing diagonal measurements
- Drill pilot holes to reduce the chances of splitting wood
NOTES: Drill pilot holes for the screws to prevent splitting the wood. Make sure no gap exists between two pieces of wood– the glue should be forced out of the joint if you have it tight. It is important for the two pieces of wood to be held together very tightly; this is the purpose of using screws. Your choice whether you install the screws from this side or the other side.
NOTE: You can see the points of the screws coming out of the side of the board, which will scratch a person walking by if they get too close. This is the reason we stopped using 3″ screws and started using 2-1/2″ screws. I like starting the screws on the 2×2 side instead of the 2×10 side because it hides the screw from view, the board splits less often, and I like have the head of the screw in the piece of wood that will rot first (will hold better for longer).
Done, you have a box that will hold 1/2 cu-yard of soil and is sized to give you 16 ‘squares’ of planting space!
After building these several times, I have some ideas for improvements:
1- Don’t use a 2×2 to measure the 1-1/2″ mark. The width of the 2×2 is less than the width of the 2×10. Use a tape measure.
2- 3/32″ is the size of the drill bit to use for pilot holes.
3- Use 2-1/2″ screws instead of 3″ screws and start them from the inside instead of the outside. The 3″ screws are too long, protrude and are very sharp. Starting them on the inside (with the pilot hole) has less chance of splitting the 2×2. Also, the 2×2 will rot before the 2×10, so it is better to have the screw threads in the board that rots later.
I’ll update the body of the blog post later, when I have some good pictures to replace the existing ones with.
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I’m about to build my first raised vegetable bed. Any suggestions on where to buy reasonably priced soil to fill the bed? I’d appreciate your info on this – I live in Forney.
Linda, see the two companies recommended in this thread: http://northtexasvegetablegardeners.com/forum/index.php?topic=115.msg460#msg460
Thank you ! The bed is built, area prepped and next purchasing soil.
There is a Living Earth Technologies in Rockwall. Much closer!
Hey Brian what a small world right? Was just looking into making a garden as we are moving from an apartment to a house and I come across something you wrote. Appreciate you passing on the info!!!! RON PAUL 2012!!!
lol, just came across this website in searching online for info on gardening in North Texas, and clicked this article. I’m a big Ron Paul fan too!
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I have an old entertainment frame made of what I think is plywood. Is this okay to use for framing the raised garden or will this be detrimental to the crop?
Is it weatherproof? If not, don’t use it!
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